Sizes & Laying Plans

Plan A - Laying Patern for Global Sandstone paving utilising 6 sizes

Laying for patterns A & B a) 285 x 275mm b) 285 x 570mm c) 432 x 570mm d) 570 x 570mm e) 855 x 570mm f) 1140 x 570mm

Plan B - Laying Pattern for Old Rectory, Midnight Black, & Global Sandstone Paving 13.65m2 Project Pack (4 sizes).

Laying for patterns A & B a) 285 x 275mm b) 285 x 570mm c) 432 x 570mm d) 570 x 570mm e) 855 x 570mm f) 1140 x 570mm

Plan C - Laying Pattern for Travertine 7.2m2 Project Pack. Sizes for Plan C. Suggested laying pattern for: Travertine

Utilising all 4 sizes within the 7.2m2 project pack. a) 200 x 200mm b) 200 x 400mm c) 400 x 400mm d) 400 x 600mm

Plan D - Laying pattern for Old Rectory & Ocean Green Slate Cobble 10.71m2 Project Pack.

Utilising all 4 sizes within the 10.71m2 project pack. a) 200 x 150mm b) 200 x 200mm c) 300 x 200mm d) 300 x 400mm

Old Rectory Cobble 1.8m	Sandstone Aztec 2.5m2 with Squaring Off Kit	Sandstone 2.5m Octagon	Sandstone 1.8m Circle
Sandstone & Old Rectory 2.8m Circle	Sandstone & Old Rectory 2.8m Circle with Squaring Off Kit	Sandstone 2.8m Circle with 2 rings of 1502mm Pathway Setts	Old Recotry Cobble 1.8m Circle

Introduction
Global Stone supply many types of paving materials and the most suitable laying method is determined by two factors: the type of paving unit (eg: paving stones, setts, kerbs) and the planned use (eg: patio, driveway, roof terrace). The following information is intended as a guide to the more usual projects that are likely to be undertaken by the more experienced DIYer.

Before Laying
Products should be carefully inspected prior to laying, so that time is available for products to be replaced if found to be defective. No responsibility will be accepted for any delays, re-laying or removing costs if this has not been done.

You will need
Spade and/or shovel, wheelbarrow, brick trowel, pointing trowel, lump hammer, bolster chisel, rubber mallet, spirit level, string line, line pins or stakes, soft brush, tape measure, straightedge timber
Small cement mixer, plate compactor ("wacker" plate)

Setting-out
Paving should be laid at a level that is at least 150mm below the damp proof course (DPC) of any adjacent building except where level access is required at a doorway (eg: for disabled access). If working against a building, it may be possible to use the horizontal brickwork jointing as a guide to level. Alternatively a taut string line or a chalk line can be used as a guide.
When working out from a building, it's a good idea to use a taut string line as a guide to both level and alignment. The simplest way to create an accurate perpendicular (90° or right angle) line from a building is to use a 3-4-5 triangle.

Falls
All paving must be drained. This is usually achieved by sloping the paving in one direction or another to direct the surface water towards a suitable disposal point, which might be a gully, a linear drain, or the edge of the garden. Whenever possible, surface water is directed away from any buildings. The riven texture of many natural stone paving materials means that water can sit on the surface more easily than might be the case with some manufactured paving materials. Consequently, it's recommended that natural stone paving should be laid to a fall of not less than 1:60 - this means that for every 60 measure along the paving, there is a drop (or a rise) of at least 1 measure. This might be 1cm in 60cm or 1 metre in 60 metres: all these generate a fall of 1:60. For ease of calculation, 1:60 means a fall of 17mm per metre.

Laying Global Stone paving
Global Stone supply two different types of paving; variable and
calibrated thickness. We carefully select the variable thickness paving to ensure the natural variation is not excessive, so most of these paving stones will have a thickness of 25-40mm. The calibrated paving has been processed to a thickness of 20-25mm depending on the type of product.

This difference has an effect on how the paving is best laid. The variable paving needs to have each bed prepared individually to accommodate the slight difference in paving depth, while the calibrated paving can be laid onto a pre-levelled (we call it "screeded") bed.

We find that best results are obtained when our paving is laid onto a bed of coarse sand and cement. It is important to use the correct sand, which should be a sharp, gritty, free-draining material and not the soft, small-particle sand used to make mortar.

Using a small mixer (if available) put a half bucket of clean water into the empty drum. Add 4 or 5 shovelfuls of coarse sand and one shovelful of cement. Allow this to mix, and then add another 4 or 5 shovelfuls of sand and a further shovelful of cement. Let this turn over for a couple of minutes by which time the cement should be completely stirred through the sand, creating a uniform colour. The mixture should be damp, but not wet, and it may have started to roll into small balls. This is what we call a "moist mix". It should be damp enough to cling together when squeezed into a ball, but no water should dribble out when so squeezed. When mixed, this bedding material has a working life of approximately 1 to 4 hours, depending on the time of year. Only mix as much material as you can be sure of using in about one hour.

Variable thickness Paving
Use a shovel or a brick trowel to spread the freshly-mixed bedding material in a layer that is roughly 25-40mm thick and extends over an area just larger than the paving stone that is to be laid. Ripple the surface of the bed so that there is some "give" when the paving stone is placed.

Calibrated Paving
A technique known as "screeding" is used to prepare the bed for calibrated paving. Screeding involves scraping level an area of bedding large enough for several paving stones at a time. To achieve the correct level for the screeded bed, a reference level is required. This might be an existing edge (or kerb or edge course) or it can be a "rail" set at the level of the underside of the paving.

Screeding
Use a shovel to spread the freshly-mixed bedding material over the area to be prepared in a layer that is roughly 40-60mm thick, and pat it with the back of the shovel to lightly compact it. It is important to use "too much" of the bedding, because it has to be scraped off, using a long, straight board to remove the excess bedding material, leaving a smooth and level surface onto which the paving can be placed.

Laying Global Stone paving on driveways
Although best suited for patios and pathways, Global Stone paving can be used for light-use driveways. The paving will need to be laid onto a bed of concrete that is at least 100mm thick, and this may need to be laid over a sub-base (strengthening layer) of crushed stone or hardcore. The paving can be directly bedded onto the fresh concrete, as described above, or the concrete can be placed and allowed to set before bedding the paving onto a mortar bed over the concrete.

Laying patterns
Global Stone paving is normally laid in one of three arrangements: stack bond (like a chess board), coursed (where the paving is laid in lines or courses of the same width) or random. Stack bond needs paving stones of all one size, while coursed layouts rely on the paving stones sharing a common width but various lengths. Random layouts mix units of various lengths and widths and are generally considered to be the most attractive layout for patios and driveways.

Placing the paving
Paving stones can be heavy and cumbersome so take care when handling them. As a rough guide, any paving stone 570 x 570mm or larger is best handled by two people, stood on one edge and carefully lowered into position. Smaller paving stones can be lifted into place by one person.

It's important to note that paving stones have a definite "face" and a "base". This means that there is a right way up, and a wrong way. The "face" on all Global Stone hand cut sandstone paving has four neatly trimmed edges and the sides taper inwards towards the base (ask for help if you are unsure). Although the paving will not break or fall apart if laid upside-down, the face has been specifically chosen to present an attractive, safe surface that shows off the natural beauty of the stone. The base may be more uneven and unattractive, and laying upside-down will definitely result in joints that are much wider than normal.

Laying Global Stone
Think about how the paving will be jointed. In most cases, a joint width of 8-15mm (12mm average) is used, with the joint being filled with a mortar or other jointing material. However, some people prefer to use narrow joints (sometimes referred to as "butt-jointing") which rely on 2-5mm wide joints that are filled with Kiln Dried Sand. Remember to allow for the jointing when placing the paving.

Ideally, the paving will sit approximately 6-12mm proud when placed and will need to be knocked down to the correct level. This steadies the paving, ensuring it lies flat and is evenly supported, as well as 'keying' it into the bedding material.

Compacting the paving
Once the paving is in the correct position, it should be tapped down using a rubber mallet until it is at the correct level. Aim the blows at imaginary points that are halfway between the centre and each
corner of the paving stone, and use firm but not heavy blows to 'persuade' the paving stone down to the desired level.

If the paving stone refuses to go down to the level, then it is better to lift the paving stone, scrape out some of the excess bedding and re-lay the stone rather than risk breaking the stone by hitting it with too much force. However, if the paving stone goes down too far, it will have to be lifted and extra bedding added to the existing bed.

Checking the laid paving
Once laid, paving stones should be stable (ie: they should not "rock" from corner to corner) and there should not be any dangerous 'lips' between adjacent units. Some smaller paving stones (285 x 285mm) can be awkward to stabilise due to their size. Using a slightly wetter bedding mix will usually overcome this problem by causing the paving stone to adhere to the bed. When checking levels and surface
regularity, use a long spirit level or a straight-edged length of timber to ensure adjacent paving stones are relatively level, with no high spots or hollows. If there is any doubt, correct the problem at this stage - it is much easier to put it right now, before the joints are filled.

Laying Global Stone granite setts
Setts are usually laid one-at-a-time to accommodate the slight variation in thickness that is found with many natural stone paving products. The setts should be laid onto a bed of coarse mortar or concrete.

For pathways and light-use patios, the setts can be laid onto a 40-75mm thick bed. Driveways or areas subject to heavier use will need to be constructed using a 100mm thick bed of concrete, and it may be necessary to include a sub-base (strengthening layer) of selected crushed stone or hardcore.

The bedding mortar described above for use with paving stones can be used to lay setts for patios and pathways. For driveways, a concrete comprising four measures of 10-14mm chippings with two measures of course sand and one measure of cement should be used.

Using a small mixer (if available) put a half bucket of clean water into the empty drum. Add four shovelfuls of gravel, two shovelfuls of coarse sand and one shovelful of cement. Allow this to mix, and then repeat. The mix may now be quite dry and stiff, so further water can be added a little at a time until the mix starts to bind. Let the mix turn over for a couple of minutes by which time the dry ingredients should be thoroughly and evenly distributed, creating a uniform colour. The mixture should be damp, but not wet, and it may have started to roll into small balls. This is what we call a "moist mix". It should be damp enough to cling together when squeezed into a ball, but no water should dribble out when so squeezed. When mixed, this bedding material has a working life of approximately 1 to 4 hours, depending on the time of year. Only mix as much material as you can be sure of using in about one hour.

Laying patterns The bedding mortar described above for use with paving stones can be used to lay setts for patios and pathways. For driveways, a concrete comprising four measures of 10-14mm chippings with two measures of course sand and one measure of cement should be used.

Using a small mixer (if available) put a half bucket of clean water into the empty drum. Add four shovelfuls of gravel, two shovelfuls of coarse sand and one shovelful of cement. Allow this to mix, and then repeat. The mix may now be quite dry and stiff, so further water can be added a little at a time until the mix starts to bind. Let the mix turn over for a couple of minutes by which time the dry ingredients should be thoroughly and evenly distributed, creating a uniform colour. The mixture should be damp, but not wet, and it may have started to roll into small balls. This is what we call a "moist mix". It should be damp enough to cling together when squeezed into a ball, but no water should dribble out when so squeezed. When mixed, this bedding material has a working life of approximately 1 to 4 hours, depending on the time of year. Only mix as much material as you can be sure of using in about one hour.

Laying patterns
Setts are normally laid in one of three arrangements: stack bond (like a chess board), coursed (where the stones are laid in lines or courses of the same width) or decorative. Stack bond needs setts of all one plan size, while coursed layouts rely on the stones sharing a common width but various lengths. Decorative layouts include complex patterns such as fans, arches and bogens - these patterns can be difficult to lay and are usually best left to specialist contractors.

Placing the setts - linked to global stone paving pt 3
Stacked or coursed layouts are laid using a taut string line as a guide to both level and alignment. The bedding material is placed using a shovel, laying out sufficient material to allow a course or 2-4 metres of setts to be laid. It is levelled out using a trowel, and each sett is individually placed, aligned and compacted using a rubber mallet before placing the next. Ideally, when placed, each sett should be 10-20mm proud of the desired level, so that it can be tapped down using the mallet, embedding the sett into the mortar or concrete in the process. Using a short piece of 12mm timber can help ensure regular joint widths are maintained between the somewhat rough hewn edges of the setts.

Checking the laid setts
Working to a taut string line ensures the setts are fairly accurately positioned for alignment and level, the riven texture can result in unexpected high spots or hollows within a course, so it is essential that the surface level is regularly checked using a long spirit level or a timber straightedge, and any problems corrected before proceeding. It is a good idea to check in both directions, along the courses (transverse) and across several courses at a time (longitudinal), as well as standing back and visually assessing the laid setts from several positions.

Cutting and Jointing of paving materials
Jointing - linked to global stone paving 4
As already mentioned, the joints between paving units can be filled with various materials. Traditionally, most paving and setts would be jointed (or pointed) with a sand/cement mortar. While this is still a popular option, it can be slow and messy, especially if you're not familiar with pointing techniques. Happily, there are a couple of alternative strategies that might be suitable for your project.

When jointing deep setts (50mm or thicker) it is sometimes possible to partially fill the joints with small chippings or a dry mix (no added water) of coarse sand and cement before topping-up with mortar or a polymeric material. However, for driveway use, full depth jointing is recommended, as this will help prevent 'rotation' of the setts when power steering is used.

Mortar jointing - linked to global stone paving 4
This is the traditional method used with flagstones and uses a strong mortar (four parts sand to one part cement) to fill the joint. The mortar should be mixed in small quantities, say one 25kg bag of sand at a time, because pointing is a slow process and the mortar has a fairly short working life (20-60 minutes depending on time of year).

The same coarse sand used for the bedding or a softer "building sand" can be used to make the mortar. Building sand gives a smoother, more adhesive mortar and is generally considered to be easier to work.

The mortar should have a workable but flowing consistency, something akin to the mix for a rich fruit cake, and able to stand in 'peaks' without slumping too much. Adding a plasticiser to the mix water makes the mortar far more workable. It is worth noting that some bags of cement contain a built-in plasticiser, so there is no need to add one to the mix water - check the packaging on your cement.

Polymeric Jointing Materials - linked to global stone paving 4
This group of products are a modern development, and despite being somewhat costly when compared to traditional mortar, they are much, much faster. The polymeric mortars are made from selected sand mixed with a special resin that starts to harden when exposed to the air or to moisture. The products are simply brushed into the joints, any excess is swept off the surface of the paving, and in 12-24 hours, the material will have hardened to form a perfect joint.

Kiln Dried Sand - linked to global stone paving 4
This is only used with narrow joints, and caution is required because the sand is likely to be washed out by wind and/or rain over time, as well as the risk of it providing the ideal home for weeds and mosses. This technique can only be used when the surface of the paving is dry. The sand is supplied in plastic bags to ensure it remains dry and free-flowing. A bag is emptied onto the dry surface of the paving and swept into the joints using a soft brush.

Cutting paving
Paving stones are best cut using a power saw or angle grinder fitted with a diamond blade specifically rated for cutting stone (or concrete). These can be hired locally and the hire depot will provide you with full instruction on how to use them safely. Bear in mind that saw cutting of stone generates lots of harmful dust. Ask the hire depot about a water suppression kit to dampen down the dust and make sure you wear a suitable dust mask and safety eyewear.

Smaller paving units such as setts can also be cut using a bolster or pitching chisel. Make sure eye protection is worn as small scalpings or shards are likely to fly up when the stone is struck. Align the
bolster on the face of the sett where the cut is required and strike firmly with a lump hammer. It may take several blows to break the stone and it may be necessary to trim the cut edge in order to make it fit the gap.